ronsub New Zealand

Reels

2008-05-20T02:21:00.001-07:00

Q: When would a reel be better than a floatline?
A: In New Zealand most divers use a floatline but there are situations where a reel can be of benefit. Snapper would be our most cautious target species which are very wary about any motion in the water that is not the norm. This includes float lines, if a Snapper spots one of these it could be enough to make it shy away before there is a chance to take a shot.Smaller fish like Tarakihi my also be easier without a floatline. But in the case of Kingfish it's far safer to have a floatline to run through the fingers on the accent instead of fighting a large fish on our return.

Wetsuits

2008-05-20T02:15:00.000-07:00

Q: What is the difference between freedivers suits from of scuba suit?
A: Differences between freedivers wetsuits over scuba diver wetsuits have come about by demand of application.
Although a freedivers wetsuit can be very warm they have a tendency to compress more at depth thus loosing some of their insulations properties. But in turn the flexibility of a freedivers or apnea wetsuit is far more liberating than that of the scuba design.
Scuba divers tend to change out of their suits between dives. Where as freedivers tend to keep their suits donned for the whole days diving.
So for the apnea wetsuit there are usually no zips & they often made of open cell neoprene.
to be continued
Q: How do I don a open cell wetsuit?
Some open cell wetsuits have a coating on the inside, which allows the diver to fit the suit dry, but even this layer has a limited lifespan. Most wetsuits require soaping the interior to make it slippery. Mix approximately one part solution to eight parts water in a small bottle. Squirt the contents into the suit top while it’s lying flat. Then grab both the cuffs and hood in one hand sealing them to avoid substance pouring out. With the other hand holding the base of the top sealing that end too. Shake the top back and fourth, dipping one end lower than the other to encourage the substance to move throughout the whole wetsuit top. Once this is done, pour the substance into the long johns which are lying flat on the ground. Repeat the exercise the long johns.
To be continued
Q: What should I use to lather my open cell wetsuit?
A: The soap used should be very mild as its only function is to don the suit. Do not use dish wash or any kind of detergent. These are very harsh on the skin especially as the substance stays in the suit for hours while diving and can cause welts. Johnson's Baby shampoo are very mild and lather quite well.

Q: How should I store my wetsuit?
A: After a days diving a suit should be washed with some form of disinfectant and rinsed. Then hung to dry in such a manner that the suit is well vented. Avoid drying in direct sunlight, although this may kill a lot of bacteria it also kills the suit. When using a coat hanger, look for one that is thick to avoid leaving marks in the wetsuit.
Author: Ron Bakker

Weight

2008-05-20T02:14:00.001-07:00

Q: How much weight should I use?
A: This can be determined by your target species and your dive ability. Take Snapper as an example, which are often in shallow waters. In order to hunt these fish effectively we need to be weighted slightly negative for when snooping over a rock. Being under weighted would cause energy to be wasted to maintain depth, and this would increase the chance of giving yourself away to the fish. This all comes with practice. If the rock you were diving was 5 metres deep and you suspected Snapper in front of this rock, you could apply enough weight to make your buoyancy neutral at 4 metres. This would make you slightly negative at 5, which makes Snooping for Snapper a lot easier. A situation where the target species is Kingfish and we are expecting them at a 15 metres, we would make ourselves neutral for this depth. Again this makes the dive far more relaxing. We can then dive to this depth without too much effort and then maintain that level without having to kick our fins to stay there. The return trip would also not be too strenuous.Weed edge diving where the diver sits or lies on the sand is again a situation where the bouyancy should be slightly negative so the diver can stay perched on the sand without having to expel energy to maintain depth.Although it’s not reasonable to expect we change our weights for every dive, this at least gives you the general idea.
Author: Ron Bakker

Spearguns

2008-05-20T02:12:00.000-07:00

Q: How long is a speargun when it states e.g 110cm ?
A: When a gun is quoted as a 110, this means the length of the barrel of the speargun would be 110cm. But the total length of a gun like this including the spear would be about 160cm.
Q: How do I load my speargun?
A: Technique is important, the higher we get the gun butt to chest level the better. This style of loading is especially good for when loading longer guns. Start with the handle in your right hand in such a position that the slings are within reach (for right handed people). Then with the left grab the left rubber sling close to the bridle with your wrist side up. Then move the handle up into the chest area, which should stay there. Then with your right hand letting go of the handle & then grabbing the other sling. Then pulling back with both hands with wrists facing up. In some cases where the spear has two notches we can hook into the first and then the next one.
Take care when hooking into the notch making sure the bridle is well seated especially if it's an articulated type. If these let go they can do serious damage to fingers.
In the case of open muzzle guns where the rubber is a single piece and can move from side to side the technique varies slightly from grabbing the left sling to hooking two or three finger over the bridle and then moving the handle into place. This only really works for dyneema or spectra type bridles as articulated are to hard on the fingers.

Author: Ron Bakker
Q: What length gun do I need?
A: In short visibility and target species would be the main influences that would affect deciding maneuverability or range. A short 75cm speargun is very quick to turn and aim. Then a 130cm speargun will have a very good range providing there is enough visibility to see our target.A good all rounder is usually about 110 or 120cm for divers who want to land anything from Snapper to a good size Kingfish. But let say further south where the target species are often smaller and the visibility is frequently 3 to 5m we may find a 90 or 100cm is better suited, as the target is closer. For the likes of Snapper a shorter speargun can be quite good in situations where the diver is snooping over the rock and want to bring the gun forward slowly holding the speargun by the handle at all times. Long spearguns often give the diver away to the prey before there is a chance to take a shot.
This has addressed the length of a speargun but there are other aspects of a speargun to be considered such as muzzle type, bridles, spear thickness & metal type etc.
Author: Ron Bakker
Q: What are the benifits of an open muzzle
A: Most open muzzles have rap around rubber slings which go through the gun below the spear. The result is a clear line of sight

Author: Ron Bakker

Masks

2008-05-20T02:09:00.000-07:00

Q: How can I stop my mask from fogging?
A: When masks a manufactured they often are left with a thin film that causes the fogging. the most common remedy is to rub toothpaste into the lens(on the inside of the mask). Another method is to use a few drops of glycerine which works quite well.On a daily basis it's normal practice to spit in the mask just before we dive.
Q: How can I stop my mask leaking?
A: Common reasons for a leaking mask:Hair between the face and maskAlthough shaving the head is a guaranteed fix for this problem, It’s probably a better option to feel around the perimeter of the mask to ensure no hair is caught under the seal. This is easier to do without gloves on.The mask overlapping the wetsuit hoodSometimes it’s worth trimming the hood if this is a frequent problem.Facial hairThis can let water in very quick even if in the morning the diver has a clean-shaven face, by the afternoon the smallest amount of stubble can cause problems.An ill-fitting mask. Although mask seals are quite similar some are better suited for a narrower face, then others for a bigger nose and so on.Not maintaining equalization.This can quite often be the cause when a diver finds the mask sealing fine for the first 8 metres or so, but at greater depths water starts to fill the mask. What happens is the external pressure of the mask is increases, pressing the mask into the face, making the seal deform and leak.Facial tension.Always keep a poker face. There are plenty of reasons for a mask to leak, but how we maintain our facial composure is one not often covered. As we immerse ourselves into the ocean, there are plenty of influences that can result as some kind of facial strain. Focus on keeping our face as emotionless as possible. It’s a very easy problem to fall into without being aware. A proven example can be seen on many divers snorkels. Quite a large percentage of divers gnaw on their mouthpiece until they are chewed right off. So relax. If nothing else relax the face. This can make a great difference to sealing your mask. Strap tensionIt would be natural to assume that if a mask is leaking, we should tighten the strap. But especially more modern masks, the seal are often improved with less tension. The difference is some masks have very soft silicone, and increasing the strap tension squashes the seal out of shape.
Damaged MaskQuite a few masks are made up of a frame, a silicone skirt the lens and a clip that holds the lens locking rings in place. Sometimes after a mask has been stood on or just knocked around, the tabs on the lens locking ring ether dislodge or break off. The most obvious thing to look for is the locking rings sitting proud from the frame.
Author: Ron Bakker

Avoid cross threading new rubber slings

2008-05-20T01:09:00.000-07:00

With the Euro rubbers the ends sometimes have quite a bit of rubber past the collars. This is usually the main cause for cross threading rubbers when we screw them into the speargun. The best is a bench grinder where we make them into a conical shape. Or with a pair of side cutters, trim around the edges.

We don’t want to go too far as the swollen part of the rubber is there to stop them pulling through the collar.

Speargun Bridles

2008-05-19T13:24:00.000-07:00

Bridles vary from steel wire to pressed sheet metal, to dyneema. The wire bridles are very simple but do have the tenancy to snap at the bend when they get older. Which can be quite a nasty experience for the fingers. This is the one of the reasons that Dyneema bridles are very common.
French articulated bridles
Very common on European spearguns, these work fine and sit very positive in the notch of most guns.

Wire bridle
These are often on cheaper or entry level guns, very simple but the wire does become more brittle over time and does sometimes break.

Looped wire bridle

Pretty much the same as an ordinary wire bridle.

Articulated bridle for bulk rubber
These go into bulk speargun rubber and then have a constrictor knot around the rubber to hold it in position.

Wide 4mm bridle
This is a fairly new type of bridle which give more room for the fingers when loading the gun, also because of the rubbers being further away from the barrel means there is less chance of the rubber caps colliding with the spear guide as the gun is fired. Finally they are a solid piece of metal with no moving parts which don’t wear out.

Dyneema bridle
Very common on South African spearguns, these are nice bridles to use and on a good notch they will last quite a few dives, but the dyneema will need replacing at least once every spearfishing season.

Plug bridles

These are quite dyneema fed through brass balls which are inserted into bulk speargun rubber.

Stainless plug bridles

Again these are inserted into bulk rubber the end with the holes protruding out the end where the dyneema is fed through and tied off. This means the dyneema can be replaced without having to remove the inserts.

Spearfishing John Dory in New Zealand

2008-05-18T13:24:00.000-07:00

Actually hunting the John Dory can be embarrassingly simple. I would have to say finding them is more the art. The John Dory is often but not always a weed edge fish. sometimes just sitting dead still under a plume of Ecalone & other times out on the hunt. Like some other fish the John Dory can adjust it's colour to blend in with the it's surroundings. For this reason it can make a great difference spotting them if we as divers make it right down to the sand where we can get a profile look of our surroundings. Looking straight down on a John Dory that's above the sand is very hard to spot the fish, but once down at the fishes level we see more definition.

Stringing the speargun

2008-05-12T13:13:00.000-07:00

Stringing the speargun should be done on a regular basis, often the reason that shafts are lost is due the mono or swivel being in bad condition.

The three most common diameters of mono for Euro spearguns are 1.5mm, 1.8mm & 2mm. The trade off is quite simple, the thicker the mono the more infuence it will have on the spears direction but also more resistant to abrasion.
For this speargun we will be fitting 1.5mm as I want it to be as accurate as possible. Start by cutting the mono on a angle so that it feeds through the crimp a lot easier.
Place the spear in the mech while adjusting the size of the loop, this gives a better idea of how it will be when swaged.
Making sure we don't have the loop too short that it jams in the mech.

Or too long that it gets in the way of loading.Starting with a long tail, heat the end of the mono till it burrs over.

Then tension it back up to the right length & swage it firmly.
When the gun is finished, we want the mono tucked out of the way so that it does not influence where the spear sits in the muzzle.
The final tensioning of the mono can be done at the swivel end (if there is one). I find starting of a bit long burring the mono then checking the tension. If it is still to long then snip off the burr, reburring, check it again. Then once we are happy swage the crimp.

Some divers like quite a bit of tension, but for myself I prefer just enough so it stays in place that I can pull it back over the line release with one finger. Some triggers will elevate the spear if the line release is too tight.

Spearfishing Kingfish in New Zealand

2008-05-12T00:15:00.000-07:00

Where?
Kingys like hanging around panicle's where the ocean floor comes from the deep to shallow very quickly. They also like a lot of current which can make things hard for the diver, which should be taken in account if the diving is offshore. The last thing we want is to be washed all the way to a different country. There are several things to take in consideration when hunting for larger fish like these.

Support

If a large fish is shot can we subdue it on our own. Sometimes it's better to have a boatman with the motor running to pick up the diver if they get carried away in the current.
Indicators
Once we have determined where we think is good location for Kingys, we then look for smaller bait fish like Demoiselle's, Blue Maomao, Mackerel. These are often closer to the surface. Using the smaller fish as a beacon we can start diving, in some cases there can be Snapper underneath the schools of smaller fish. Use this possibilities to your advantage. When first swimming to what we think is a good spot, make your first dive close to the face of the rock as discrete as possible, keeping your gun back slightly to not disturb any Snapper that might be parked up.
A fish with a lot of bogie
Make sure you as a diver do not have anything dangling loose that can catch. A common mishap is weight belts hooked around the floatline. Even a relatively small king fish can drag a diver under , so it's important to to be an organized diver.
Tricks
Kingys are inquisitive creatures, & unfortunate for them we can use this to our advantage. Diving in the ideal conditions will not guarantee sighting a Kingy. But if we do what can to bring them in closer. Chasing after King fish in most cases will encourage them to pick up the pace & swim away. They are a fish that recognize eye contact which soon puts them off. I Sometimes put my forearm in front of my eyes, just peeking over the top. Sometimes swimming in the opposite direction will encourage them to follow & in most cases at a slightly lower level than the diver. Shooting the likes of a mackerel can bring them in. In other cases where I have spotted Kingies & they have quickly disappeared again, I will do a second dive deeper & they are still circling below.
In some cases to bring them in is to swim in the opposite direction. Which often encourages them to turn around & swim along side. Let the gun trail back & track the fish in the corner of your eye. As the fish catches up behind we start lining on the target .But when this fails we feel a bit silly.
Placing A Shot
Kingies are powerful fish, consequently hard on shafts. When lining the gun up for a shot, it will put a lot less strain on the shaft if we shoot just as the fish is leaving. This places a shallower angle which makes the shaft almost parallel with the fish. When the fish puts up a fight, it is placing less perpendicular strain on the shaft. Thus less chance of bending. The drawback is the shaft must pass through more meat before it makes it through something vital.
Placing a shot well can take a bit of experience but there are some things we can focus on to increase our chances. When lining up on a fish that is traveling a fair speed it's a good idea to shoot ahead of the fish so we are actually shooting at thin air & this principal can work on a lot of other fish like Trevalley, Koheru & Kahawai.

Spearfishing Snapper in New Zealand

2008-05-11T22:33:00.000-07:00

Probably one of the most prized trophy fish in New Zealand.

And Why
Although several species in New Zealand are easy to spearfish, Snapper are not one of them. Especially when they get older and wiser. Although Snapper are good eating, for the most of us it’s the challenge of landing the big one.

Nature of the Snapper
By default a snapper is paranoid by nature unless it has been raised in a reserve where it’s fed on a regular basis and does not have to worry about getting shot by a speargun or hooked on a fishing rod. Which in some ways is comparable to a marine park, where sea life is conditioned to behave different than their natural environment.

Where?
Although Snapper can be spotted just about anywhere, I would first like to cover the scenario where the spear fisherman is snooping for this species.
In many cases Snapper prefer rocks that have a steep drop with no other rocks in front. Front being the side facing into the current. Almost what you would call a rock with a view. Sometimes a single fish and other times in a group. It can be very frustrating when snooping over a rock to see small Snapper out wide, which are agitated by your presence and soon scare away the big hump head that's closer to the rock.
Other times they are right out in the open without a sceric of shelter or reef. This will always be more challenging if not impossible.

Stealth
Although we can all use a bit of luck from time to time, shooting good sized Snapper takes skill in the form of being quiet invisible & very patient. Along with large humped headed Trevally, to land larger Snapper requires hunting by stealth. The
Snapper are easily spooked by the sound of bubbles, shadows even by other fish. With some other species, baitfish can relevant indicator of what fish life might be around. With Snapper there can be a complete absence of any other fish, but still be in good Snapper area.

It is very easy to become relaxed & careless especially when we are not seeing much fish life. But remember patients. Like many forms of hunting, there can be a long time spent in the water with no reward, but it's the ones who Perceiver that get rewarded.

Sometimes I feel that we as divers look for Snapper in places that are convenient for ourselves instead of where is the most likely location of the fish. In some ways that's not a bad thing because diving 50 metres down a rock face to find our prey is just not really on the cards. But it is good to keep that in mind when diving a stretch of coastline.

Quite often divers who spend a lot of their time hunting Snapper also do well finding large Trevally, as they rest in similar areas.

Ideally when targeting this species we want to be working into the current, a bit like being down wind when hunting deer. For two reasons 1 so the fish cannot smell us but also the placing of Snapper are often parked up in front of a rock sitting very still. Making it easier to get closer. It is an easy thing to dive over a rock & not see any fish until we have descended to far over the rock only to discover the big one was so close to the rock face, then the fish spots you an is out of there like a rocket.

Why Snapper
In some cases when we cannot find an opportunity we might have to make one. Kina's are a great asset when it comes to bait ups. When baiting Snapper it is important where the bait is placed. Snapper become very paranoid within an instance of something not being quite right. We want to give ourselves as much advantage as possible. Remembering that we want to work into the current, we need to find a rock that we can hide behind. Then placing the bait on the current prevailing side. In past experiences watching Snapper feed on bait up I have seen them pick up a half Kina & swim away to safer grounds before eating. For this reason in some cases where I have had to bring in Kinas from another area, I let them settle first so that they reattach to the rock. Once this has happened I go back & crack the Kinas, which although cracked in half they stay attached to the rock which can help to keep the Snapper from taking of with the goodies. Keeping the bait close together will keep the action more concentrated & also makes it easier for the diver to focus on a smaller area.

In some cases where Kina's are not available we might have to target the likes of Mackerel to use as bait. Which does work well but in some cases fish bait tends to move more in the current, which can make it hard to centralize the bait to one spot.

Snapper in the open
Now & then Snapper will be spotted in the open water, which can be impossible to approach. But sometimes in deeper water we can move over the top of the fish at the surface very slowly. When we are right above the fish & it hasn't spooked then form a line in your mind running from the pectoral fins up vertical & that's your diving line to follow. It is important that the dive is very slow smooth & following down this line very straight. As this is a small blind spot of the fish.
Placing the shot
In a lot of situations when we have spotted a good Snapper, we are right above the fish. Which is not the easiest shooting angle. In some cases we can actually exploit the split second the fish has spotted us, they will quite often turn enough to take a profile shot.

Bringing them in
Not all Snapper hunts are ideal situations. For example in some cases we could be swimming over a reef then in the distance we spot a Snapper out wide, too far away to take a shot. How can we bring the fish closer? It doesn't always work but we can throw broken kina above water so that it lands in front of the fish. In most cases the fish are not spooked by a Kina slowly descending, which brings them in.

Shooting the small one letting the big one get away
I have found in a lot of situations where I am looking for Snapper that when I snoop over a rock that I might see small fish out wide but tucked right down by the face of the rock will be the big one. Sometimes it pays not to be in a hurry.

Entering Blog world

2008-05-02T23:34:00.000-07:00

Whoa... this place is freaky. Hard to believe I have taken this long to start a blog.